Electronic Ignition

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Late '31
Posts: 93
Joined: Wed Dec 07, 2011 7:43 pm

Electronic Ignition

Post by Late '31 »

Electronic Ignition
The Model A ignition has no advance / retard other than what you control manually from the steering wheel lever. In addition, the standard distributor needs to be oiled every 500 miles to keep the bushings in good shape, and of course requires routine contact point maintenance.
The stock Model A ignition switch, called a pop-out, is so named since when you turn the key to the run position, it pops out. You can then remove the key if you wish, and simply push it back in to turn the motor off.
Electrically, the stock switch routes the signal from the coil through the steel cable assembly (for theft protection) to the distributor.
An option that you may want to consider is an upgraded distributor that has automatic advance and electronic triggering, but still looks completely stock.
Providing automatic advance is favorable to do since the motor isn't running full advance at low RPMs. However, unlike most later ignitions, this type upgraded unit doesn't have vacuum advance to let the timing retard a little during heavy throttle settings.
Just as with the original, take notice that instead of spark plug wires, there are brass strips that serve this purpose. You must be a little careful where you put your hands when the engine is running, as there is plenty of voltage going through those uninsulated strips.
An other option is the Transpark electronic ignition conversation kit with remote
coil conversion. It replaces the points and condenser with an electronic module. This item includes all hardware and wiring to convert a points type distributor to an electronic type. It uses the stock housing and is concealed behind the firewall. You will get improved spark, reliability, and enhanced power, providing increased reliability and increased spark energy.
The Transpark requires no maintenance and preserves the external appearance of the Model A's original ignition system.
This is a Nu-Rex brand for 6 or 12 volt applications, positive or negative ground and includes a system-matched ignition coil.
No original parts are changed or modified during installation, making it easy to convert the ignition system back to Henry's original configuration if desired.
The unit simply connects to the coil in the same wiring position as your original (pop-out switch cannot be used). There is no rat’s nest of multiple wires or an unsightly “black box” to hang on the firewall. No points, no condenser!
The FSI Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit, featuring the PerTronix Electronic Ignitor, (replaces the upper plate parts in your stock distributor) bolts to your distributor (the lower plate is no longer needed) and the included plastic ring presses onto your cam. The wires are fed through a new spring conduit, that is very similar to the old pop-out cable, to maintain the stock appearance. Each kit comes with a coil matched to the proper OHMs.
Distributor installation is straightforward with good instructions. However, the Model A doesn't have timing marks, and with the electronic ignition, you can't measure when it sparks except with use of a timing light.
Timing Kit / Degree Indicator
This kit allows you to get your timing right on the money using a timing light. Once timing is set, there is no longer any need to set timing using a pin. Also comes with gauge that lays on distributor body so you can see how many degrees you are moving cam.
Unlike a normal distributor, but just like the original Model A, rather than spinning the distributor around to set timing, you loosen a screw in the top of the distributor shaft, and the rotor/points assembly can be twisted around to where you want it, then you tighten the screw to lock in the setting. Small changes can be made spinning the distributor, but there isn't a lot of rotation available because of the strips that serve as spark plug wires.
You may notice that water is spitting out of the radiator from time to time. Thinking that it must be a blown head gasket and getting combustion air into the cooling system, you pull the head. Prior to pulling the head, put the engine at TDC to help realign the distributor upon reassembly. If it turns out that the head gasket wasn't blown, notice the #1 piston to see if it is all the way to the top of its stroke. You may discover that the TDC notch in the timing gear is not really showing top dead center. As a result, the timing is too far advanced, and that was causing the water issue. A new lesson about automotive assumptions was learned.
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